Monday 14 May 2018

You can withdraw all your earned tokens after the ICO

SANCOJ.COM  is The World's 1st Opportunity Supermarket that offers various opportunities to all on one single platform built on ethereum blockchain and powered by Artificial Intelligence.
Sancoj is airdropping free SANC tokens for signing up on their site and completing social media tasks! Apart from Telegram, all other tasks are optional. You start earning from 2000 SANC
which is worth $3,20. Token price: $0.0005 (1 ETH = 1,700,000).
===============================================================================
About Zingo
Zingo is an Artificial Intelligence Agent built into the Sancoj platform to analyze user data and suggest the most profitable opportunities to the user.
We noticed that many people make career decisions based on their area of specialization and training, current financial status, current location, family ties, etc.
They do not take into consideration the possibilities that other factors can offer.

Total Supply: 100,000,000,000 billion
Token distributed 5 billion Price $0.0005 (1 ETH = 1,700,000)

One of the factors that increase terrorism today is poverty. Sancoj is here to provide us the way to eliminate poverty in the land. Join thousands of users on Sancoj platform today by purchasing SANC token in the ongoing ICO? 1 Eth for 700,000 SANC token. #ico #sancoj
market market.sancoj.com

Accepted Currencies BTC & ETH Bonus 68.75% off

ICO May 1 - May 30, 2018
Token distribution for the allocated 50 billion SANC tokens to investors worldwide.

Sancoj Escrow
Sancoj ICO will be Escrowed by 2 CET reps:
Lauda and Mitchell
Fund Release Details
20% Released after the ICO.
20% After Launch of the mobile applications (Android and iOS).
20% After integrating 3 modules (Advert, Bulk Liquidity, Contractor Profiling).
20% Launch of AI Agent (Zingo).
20% Launch of Debit card.

How to join?

  1. Go to airdrop page and click on ''Airdrop'' on the upper right of the site
  1. Register and click on ''join airdrop'' on your dashboard. You will see tasks and how much you can earn for a task. For example Share/like a post on Twitter is 2000 SANC which is worth $3.20
  2. Click on ''my profile'' to submit your Telegram username. There are more social media tasks on this page involving Facebook, Linkedin and Bitcointalk. For example Follow on Facebook is 3000 SANC which is worth $4,80
  3. You can withdraw all your earned tokens after the ICO
TAG: airdrop, token, ico, cryptocurrency, sancoj

The Big Project 2018

SANCOJ.COM  is The World's 1st Opportunity Supermarket that offers various opportunities to all on one single platform built on ethereum blockchain and powered by Artificial Intelligence.
Sancoj is airdropping free SANC tokens for signing up on their site and completing social media tasks! Apart from Telegram, all other tasks are optional. You start earning from 2000 SANC
which is worth $3,20. Token price: $0.0005 (1 ETH = 1,700,000).
===============================================================================
About Zingo
Zingo is an Artificial Intelligence Agent built into the Sancoj platform to analyze user data and suggest the most profitable opportunities to the user.
We noticed that many people make career decisions based on their area of specialization and training, current financial status, current location, family ties, etc.
They do not take into consideration the possibilities that other factors can offer.

Total Supply: 100,000,000,000 billion
Token distributed 5 billion Price $0.0005 (1 ETH = 1,700,000)

One of the factors that increase terrorism today is poverty. Sancoj is here to provide us the way to eliminate poverty in the land. Join thousands of users on Sancoj platform today by purchasing SANC token in the ongoing ICO? 1 Eth for 700,000 SANC token. #ico #sancoj
market market.sancoj.com

Accepted Currencies BTC & ETH Bonus 68.75% off

ICO May 1 - May 30, 2018
Token distribution for the allocated 50 billion SANC tokens to investors worldwide.

Sancoj Escrow
Sancoj ICO will be Escrowed by 2 CET reps:
Lauda and Mitchell
Fund Release Details
20% Released after the ICO.
20% After Launch of the mobile applications (Android and iOS).
20% After integrating 3 modules (Advert, Bulk Liquidity, Contractor Profiling).
20% Launch of AI Agent (Zingo).
20% Launch of Debit card.

How to join?

  1. Go to airdrop page and click on ''Airdrop'' on the upper right of the site
  1. Register and click on ''join airdrop'' on your dashboard. You will see tasks and how much you can earn for a task. For example Share/like a post on Twitter is 2000 SANC which is worth $3.20
  2. Click on ''my profile'' to submit your Telegram username. There are more social media tasks on this page involving Facebook, Linkedin and Bitcointalk. For example Follow on Facebook is 3000 SANC which is worth $4,80
  3. You can withdraw all your earned tokens after the ICO
TAG: airdrop, token, ico, cryptocurrency, sancoj

Monday 2 October 2017

CHOP, HALF VOLLEY, AND COURT POSITION.

CHOP, HALF VOLLEY, AND COURT POSITION.

Chop stroke.
------------    

In Tennis, a chop stroke is a shot where the angle towards the player and behind the racquet, made by the line of flight of the ball, and the racquet travelling down across it, is greater than 45 degrees and may be 90 degrees. The racquet face passes slightly outside the ball and down the side, chopping it, as a man chops wood. The spin and curve is from right to left. It is made with a stiff wrist.

The slice shot merely reduced the angle mentioned from 45 degrees down to a very small one. The racquet face passes either inside or outside the ball, according to direction desired, while the stroke is mainly a wrist twist or slap. This slap imparts a decided skidding break to the ball, while a chop "drags" the ball off the ground without break.

The rules of footwork for both these shots should be the same as the drive, but because both are made with a short swing and more wrist play, without the need of weight, the rules of footwork may be more safely discarded and body position not so carefully considered.

Both these shots are essentially defensive, and are labour-saving devices when your opponent is on the baseline. A chop or slice is very hard to drive, and will break up any driving game.

It is not a shot to use against a volley, as it is too slow to pass and too high to cause any worry. It should be used to drop short, soft shots at the feet of the net man as he comes in. Do not strive to pass a net man with a chop or slice, except through a big opening.

The drop-shot is a very soft, sharply-angled chop stroke, played wholly with the wrist. It should drop within 3 to 5 feet of the net to be of any use. The racquet face passes around the outside of the ball and under it with a distinct "wrist turn." Do not swing the racquet from the shoulder in making a drop shot. The drop shot has no relation to a stop-volley. The drop shot is all wrist. The stop-volley has no wrist at all.

Use all your wrist shots, chop, slice, and drop, merely as an auxilliary to your orthodox game. They are intended to upset your opponent's game through the varied spin on the ball.

The half volley.
----------------      

This shot requires more perfect timing, eyesight, and racquet work than any other, since its margin of safety is smallest and its manifold chances of mishaps numberless.

It is a pick-up. The ball meets the ground and racquet face at nearly the same moment, the ball bouncing off the ground, on the strings. This shot is a stiff-wrist, short swing, like a volley with no follow through. The racquet face travels along the ground with a slight tilt over the ball and towards the net, thus holding the ball low; the shot, like all others in tennis, should travel across the racquet face, along the short strings. The racquet face should always be slightly outside the ball.

The half volley is essentially a defensive stroke, since it should only be made as a last resort, when caught out of position by your opponent's shot. It is a desperate attempt to extricate yourself from a dangerous position without retreating. never deliberately half volley.

Court position.
---------------

A tennis court is 39 feet long from baseline to net. There are only two places in a tennis court that a tennis player should be to await the ball.

1. About 3 feet behind the baseline near the middle of the court, or

2. About 6 to 8 feet back from the net and almost opposite the ball.

The first is the place for all baseline players. The second is the net position.

If you are drawn out of these positions by a shot which you must return, do not remain at the point where you struck the ball, but attain one of the two positions mentioned as rapidly as possible.

The distance from the baseline to about 10, feet from the net may be considered as "no-man's-land" or "the blank." Never linger there, since a deep shot will catch you at your feet. After making your shot from the blank, as you must often do, retreat behind the baseline to await the return, so you may again come forward to meet the ball. If you are drawn in short and cannot retreat safely, continue all the way to the net position.

Never stand and watch your shot, for to do so simply means you are out of position for your next stroke. Strive to attain a position so that you always arrive at the spot the ball is going to before it actually arrives. Do your hard running while the ball is in the air, so you will not be hurried in your stroke after it bounces.

It is in learning to do this that natural anticipation plays a big role. Some players instinctively know where the next return is going and take position accordingly, while others will never sense it. It is to the latter class that I urge court position, and recommend always coming in from behind the baseline to meet the ball, since it is much easier to run forward than back.

Should you be caught at the net, with a short shot to your opponent, do not stand still and let him pass you at will, as he can easily do. Pick out the side where you think he will hit, and jump to, it suddenly as he swings. If you guess right, you win the point. If you are wrong, you are no worse off, since he would have beaten you anyway with his shot.

Your position should always strive to be such that you can cover the greatest possible area of court without sacrificing safety, since the straight shot is the surest, most dangerous, and must be covered. It is merely a question of how much more court than that immediately in front of the ball may be guarded.

A well-grounded knowledge of court position saves many points, to say nothing of much breath expended in long runs after hopeless shots.

GRIP, FOOTWORK, AND STROKES IN TENNIS.

Footwork is weight control. It is correct body position for strokes, and out of it all strokes should grow. In explaining the various forms of stroke and footwork I am writing as a right-hand player. Left-handers should simply reverse the feet.

Racquet grip is a very essential part of stroke, because a faulty grip will ruin the finest serving. It is a natural grip for a top forehand drive. It is inherently weak for the backhand, as the only natural shot is a chop stroke.

To acquire the forehand grip, hold the racquet with the edge of the frame towards the ground and the face perpendicular, the handle towards the body, and "shake hands" with it, just as if you were greeting a friend. The handle settled comfortably and naturally into the hand, the line of the arm, hand, and racquet are one. The swing brings the racquet head on a line with the arm, and the whole racquet is merely an extension of it.

The backhand grip is a quarter circle turn of hand on the handle, bringing the hand on top of the handle and the knuckles directly up. The shot travels ACROSS the wrist.

This is the best basis for a grip. I do not advocate learning this grip exactly, but model your natural grip as closely as possible on these lines without sacrificing your own comfort or individuality.

Having once settled the racquet in the hand, the next question is the position of the body and the order of developing strokes.

All tennis strokes, should be made with the body' at right angles to the net, with the shoulders lined up parallel to the line of flight of the ball. The weight should always travel forward. It should pass from the back foot to the front foot at the moment of striking the ball. Never allow the weight to be going away from the stroke. It is weight that determines the "pace" of a stroke; swing that, decides the "speed."

Let me explain the definitions of "speed" and "pace." "Speed" is the actual rate with which a ball travels through the air. "Pace" is the momentum with which it comes off the ground. Pace is weight. It is the "sting" the ball carries when it comes off the ground, giving the inexperienced or unsuspecting player a shock of force which the stroke in no way showed.

A great many players have both "speed" and "pace." Some shots may carry both.

The order of learning strokes should be:

1. The Drive. Fore and backhand. This is the foundation of all tennis, for you cannot build up a net attack unless you have the ground stroke to open the way. Nor can you meet a net attack successfully unless you can drive, as that is the only successful passing shot.

2. The Service.

3. The Volley and Overhead Smash.



4. The Chop or Half Volley and other incidental and ornamental strokes.

GENERAL TENNIS PSYCHOLOGY.

GENERAL TENNIS PSYCHOLOGY.

Tennis psychology is nothing more than understanding the workings of your opponent's mind, and gauging the effect of your own game on his mental viewpoint, and understanding the mental effects resulting from the various external causes on your own mind. You cannot be a successful psychologist of others without first understanding your own mental processes, you must study the effect on yourself of the same happening under different circumstances. You react differently in different moods and under different conditions. You must realize the effect on your game of the resulting irritation, pleasure, confusion, or whatever form your reaction takes. Does it increase your efficiency? If so, strive for it, but never give it to your opponent.

Does it deprive you of concentration? If so, either remove the cause, or if that is not possible strive to ignore it.

Once you have judged accurately your own reaction to conditions, study your opponents, to decide their temperaments. Like temperaments react similarly, and you may judge men of your own type by yourself. Opposite temperaments you must seek to compare with people whose reactions you know.

A person who can control his own mental processes stands an excellent chance of reading those of another, for the human mind works along definite lines of thought, and can be studied. One can only control one's, mental processes after carefully studying them.

A steady phlegmatic baseline player is seldom a keen thinker. If he was he would not adhere to the baseline.

The physical appearance of a man is usually a pretty clear index to his type of mind. The stolid, easy-going man, who usually advocates the baseline game, does so because he hates to stir up his torpid mind to think out a safe method of reaching the net. There is the other type of baseline player, who prefers to remain on the back of the court while directing an attack intended to break up your game. He is a very dangerous player, and a deep, keen thinking antagonist. He achieves his results by mixing up his length and direction, and worrying you with the variety of his game. He is a good psychologist. The first type of player mentioned merely hits the ball with little idea of what he is doing, while the latter always has a definite plan and adheres to it. The hard-hitting, erratic, net-rushing player is a creature of impulse. There is no real system to his attack, no understanding of your game. He will make brilliant coups on the spur of the moment, largely by instinct; but there is no, mental power of consistent thinking. It is an interesting, fascinating type.

The dangerous man is the player who mixes his style from back to fore court at the direction of an ever-alert mind. This is the man to study and learn from. He is a player with a definite purpose. A player who has an answer to every query you propound him in your game. He is the most subtle antagonist in the world. He is of the school of Brookes. Second only to him is the man of dogged determination that sets his mind on one plan and adheres to it, bitterly, fiercely fighting to the end, with never a thought of change. He is the man whose psychology is easy to understand, but whose mental viewpoint is hard to upset, for he never allows himself to think of anything except the business at hand. This man is your Johnston or your Wilding. I respect the mental capacity of Brookes more, but I admire the tenacity of purpose of Johnston.

Pick out your type from your own mental processes, and then work out your game along the lines best suited to you.

When two men are, in the same class, as regards stroke equipment, the determining factor in any given match is the mental viewpoint. Luck, so-called, is often grasping the psychological value of a break in the game, and turning it to your own account.

We hear a great deal about the "shots we have made." Few realize the importance of the "shots we have missed." The science of missing shots is as important as that of making them, and at times a miss by an inch is of more value than a, return that is killed by your opponent.

Let me explain. A player drives you far out of court with an angle-shot. You run hard to it, and reaching, drive it hard and fast down the side-line, missing it by an inch. Your opponent is surprised and shaken, realizing that your shot might as well have gone in as out. He will expect you to try it again, and will not take the risk next time. He will try to play the ball, and may fall into error. You have thus taken some of your opponent's confidence, and increased his chance of error, all by a miss.

If you had merely popped back that return, and it had been killed, your opponent would have felt increasingly confident of your inability to get the ball out of his reach, while you would merely have been winded without result.

Let us suppose you made the shot down the sideline. It was a seemingly impossible get. First it amounts to TWO points in that it took one away from your opponent that should have been his and gave you one you ought never to have had. It also worries your opponent, as he feels he has thrown away a big chance.

The psychology of a tennis match is very interesting, but easily understandable. Both men start with equal chances. Once one man establishes a real lead, his confidence goes up, while his opponent worries, and his mental viewpoint becomes poor. The sole object of the first man is to hold his lead, thus holding his confidence. If the second player pulls even or draws ahead, the inevitable reaction occurs with even a greater contrast in psychology. There is the natural confidence of the leader now with the second man as well as that great stimulus of having turned seeming defeat into probable victory. The reverse in the case of the first player is apt to hopelessly destroy his game, and collapse follows.

SERVICE-THE OPENING GUN OF TENNIS.

Service is the opening gun of tennis. It is putting the ball in play. The old idea was that service should never be more than merely the beginning of a rally. With the rise of American tennis and the advent of Dwight Davis and Holcombe Ward, service took on a new significance. These two men originated what is now known as the American Twist delivery.

From a mere formality, service became a point winner. Slowly it gained in importance, until Maurice E. M'Loughlin, the wonderful "California Comet," burst across the tennis sky with the first of those terrific cannon-ball deliveries that revolutionized the game, and caused the old-school players to send out hurry calls for a severe footfault rule or some way of stopping the threatened destruction of all ground strokes. M'Loughlin made service a great factor in the game. It remained for R. N. Williams to supply the antidote that has again put service in the normal position of mere importance, not omnipotence. Williams stood in on the delivery and took it on the rising bound.

Service must be speedy. Yet speed is not the be-all and end-all. Service must be accurate, reliable, and varied. It must be used with discretion and served with brains.

Any tall player has an advantage over a short one, in service. Given a man about 6 feet and allow him the 3 feet added by his reach, it has been proved by tests that should he deliver a service, perfectly flat, with no variation caused by twist or wind, that just cleared the net at its lowest point (3 feet in the centre), there is only a margin of 8 inches of the service court in which the ball can possibly fall; the remainder is below the net angle. Thus it is easy to see how important it is to use some form of twist to bring the ball into court. Not only must it go into court, but it must be sufficiently speedy that the receiver does not have an opportunity of an easy kill. It must also be placed so as to allow the server an advantage for his next return, admitting the receiver puts the ball in play.

Just as the first law of receiving is to, put the ball in play, so of service it is to cause the receiver to fall into error. Do not strive unduly for clean aces, but use your service to upset the ground strokes of your opponent.

Service should be hit from as high a point as the server can COMFORTABLY reach. To stretch unnecessarily is both wearing on the server and unproductive of results. Varied pace and varied  speed is the keynote to a good service.

The slice service should be hit from a point above the right shoulder and as high as possible. The server should stand at about a forty-five degree angle to the baseline, with both feet firmly planted on the ground. Drop the weight back on the right foot and swing the racquet freely and easily behind the back. Toss the ball high enough into the air to ensure it passing through the desired hitting plane, and then start a slow shift of the weight forward, at the same time increasing the power of the swing forward as the racquet commences its upward flight to the ball. Just as the ball meets the racquet face the weight should be thrown forward and the full power of the swing smashed into the service. Let the ball strike the racquet INSIDE the face of the strings, with the racquet travelling directly towards the court. The angle of the racquet face will impart the twist necessary to bring the ball in court. The wrist should be somewhat flexible in service. If necessary lift the right foot and swing the whole body forward with the arm. Twist slightly to the right, using the left foot as a pivot. The general line of the racquet swing is from RIGHT to LEFT and always forward.

At this point and before I take up the other branches of serving, let me put in a warning against footfaulting. I can only say that a footfault is crossing or touching the line with either foot before the ball is delivered, or it is a jump or step. I am not going into a technical discussion of footfaults. It is unnecessary, and by placing your feet firmly before the service there is no need to footfault.



It is just as unfair to deliberately footfault as to miscall a ball, and it is wholly unnecessary. The average footfault is due to carelessness, over-anxiety, or ignorance of the rule. All players are offenders at times, but it can quickly be broken up.

THE DRIVE IN TENNIS.

THE DRIVE IN TENNIS.

The forehand drive is the opening of every offensive in tennis, and, as such, should be most carefully studied. There are certain rules of footwork that apply to all shots. To reach a ball that is a short distance away, advance the foot that is away from the shot and thus swing into position to hit. If a ball is too close to the body, retreat the foot closest to the shot and drop the weight back on it, thus, again, being in position for the stroke. When hurried, and it is not possible to change the foot position, throw the weight on the foot closest to the ball.

The receiver should always await the service facing the net, but once the serve is started on the way to court, the receiver should at once attain the position to receive it with the body at right angles to the net.

The forehand drive is made up of one continuous swing of the racquet that, for the purpose of analysis, may be divided into three parts:

1. The portion of the swing behind the body, which determines the speed of the stroke.

2. That portion immediately in front of the body which determines the direction and, in conjunction with weight shift from one foot to the other, the pace of the shot.

3. The portion beyond the body, comparable to the golfer's "follow through," determines spin, top or slice, imparted to the ball.

All drives should be topped. The slice shot is a totally different stroke.

To drive straight down the side-line, construct in theory a parallelogram with two sides made up of the side-line and your shoulders, and the two ends, the lines of your feet, which should, if extended, form the right angles with the side-lines. Meet the ball at a point about 4 to 4 1/2 feet from the body immediately in front of the belt buckle, and shift the weight from the back to the front foot at the MOMENT OF STRIKING THE BALL. The swing of the racquet should be flat and straight through. The racquet head should be on a line with the hand, or, if anything, slightly in advance; the whole arm and the racquet should turn slightly over the ball as it leaves the racquet face and the stroke continue to the limit of the swing, thus imparting top spin to the ball.

The hitting plane for all ground strokes should be between the knees and shoulders. The most favourable plane is on a line with the waist.

Never step away from the ball in driving cross court. always throw your weight in the shot.

The forehand drive from the left court is identically the same for the straight shot down your opponent's forehand. For the cross drive to his backhand, you must conceive of a diagonal line from your backhand corner to his, and thus make your stroke with the footwork as if this imaginary line were the side-line. In other words, line up your body along your shot and make your regular drive. Do not try to "spoon" the ball over with a delayed wrist motion, as it tends to slide the ball off your racquet.

All drives should be made with a stiff, locked wrist. There is no wrist movement in a true drive. Top spin is imparted by the arm, not the wrist.

The backhand drive follows closely the principles of the forehand, except that the weight shifts a moment sooner, and the R or front foot should always be advanced a trifle closer to the side-line than the L so as to bring the body clear of the swing. The ball should be met in front of the right leg, instead of the belt buckle, as the great tendency in backhand shots is to slice them out of the side-line, and this will pull the ball cross court, obviating this error. The racquet head must be slightly in advance of the hand to aid in bringing the ball in the court. Do not strive for too much top spin on your backhand.

I strongly urge that no one should ever favour one department of his game, in defence of a weakness. Develop both forehand and backhand, and do not "run around" your backhand, particularly in return of service. To do so merely opens your court. If you should do so, strive to ace your returns, because a weak effort would only result in a kill by your opponent.

Do not develop one favourite shot and play nothing but that. If you have a fair cross-court drive, do not use it in practice, but strive to develop an equally fine straight shot.

Remember that the fast shot is the straight shot. The cross drive must be slow, for it has not the room owing to the increased angle and height of the net. Pass down the line with your drive, but open the court with your cross-court shot.

Drives should have depth. The average drive should hit behind the service-line. A fine drive should hit within 3 feet of the baseline. A cross-court drive should be shorter than a straight drive, so as to increase the possible angle. Do not always play one length drive, but learn to vary your distance according to your man. You should drive deep against a baseliner, but short against a net player, striving to drop them at his feet as, he comes in.

Never allow your opponent to play a shot he likes if you can possibly force him to one he dislikes.

Again I urge that you play your drive:

1. With the body sideways to the net.

2. The swing flat, with long follow through.

3. The weight shifting just as the ball is hit.

THE FUNDAMENTALS OF TENNIS. 

I trust this initial effort of mine in the world of letters will find a place among both novices and experts in the tennis world. I am striving to interest the student of the game by a somewhat prolonged discussion of match play, which I trust will shed a new light on the game. 

May I turn to the novice at my opening and speak of certain matters which are second nature to the skilled player? 

The best tennis equipment is not too good for the beginner who seeks really to succeed. It is a saving in the end, as good quality material so far outlasts poor. 

Always dress in tennis clothes when engaging in tennis. The question of choosing a racquet is a much more serious matter. I do not advocate forcing a certain racquet upon any player. All the standard makes are excellent. It is in weight, balance, and size of handle that the real value of a racquet frame depends, while good stringing is, essential to obtain the best results. 

After you have acquired your racquet, make a firm resolve to use good tennis balls, as a regular bounce is a great aid to advancement, while a "dead" ball is no practice at all. 

If you really desire to succeed at the game and advance rapidly, I strongly urge you to see all the good tennis you can. Study the play of the leading players and strive to copy their strokes. Read all the tennis instruction books you can find. They are a great assistance.  

More tennis can be learned off the court, in the study of theory, and in watching the best players in action, than can ever be learned in actual play. I do not mean miss opportunities to play. Far from it. Play whenever possible, but strive when playing to put in practice the theories you have read or the strokes you have watched. 

Never be discouraged at slow progress. The trick over some stroke you have worked over for weeks unsuccessfully will suddenly come to you when least expected. Tennis players are the product of hard work. Very few are born geniuses at the game. 

Tennis is a game that pays you dividends all your life. A tennis racquet is a letter of introduction in any town. The brotherhood of the game is universal, for none but a good sportsman can succeed in the game for any lengthy period. Tennis provides relaxation, excitement, exercise, and pure enjoyment to the man who is tied hard and fast to his business until late afternoon. Age is not a drawback. The tennis players of the world wrote a magnificent page in the history of the World War. No branch of sport sent more men to the colours from every country in the world than tennis, and these men returned with glory or paid the supreme sacrifice on the field of honour. 

The following order of development produces the quickest and most lasting results: 

1. Concentration on the game. 

2. Keep the eye on the ball. 

3. Foot-work and weight-control. 

4. Strokes. 

5. Court position. 

6. Court generalship or match play. 

7. Tennis psychology. 

concentration.
-------------- 

Tennis is played primarily with the mind. The most perfect racquet technique in the world will not suffice if the directing mind is wandering. There are many causes of a wandering mind in a tennis match. The chief one is lack of interest in the game. No one should play tennis with an idea of real success unless he cares sufficiently about the game to be willing to do the drudgery necessary in learning the game correctly. Give it up at once unless you are willing to work. Conditions of play or the noises in the gallery often confuse and bewilder experienced match-players playing under new surroundings. Complete concentration on the matter in hand is the only cure for a wandering mind, and the sooner the lesson is learned the more rapid the improvement of the player.  

The surest way to hold a match in mind is to play for every set, every game in the set, every point in the game and, finally, every shot in the point. A set is merely a conglomeration of made and missed shots, and the man who does not miss is the ultimate victor. 

Wednesday 23 August 2017

Bathroom Remodeling Books: Are They Worth The Buy?

Bathroom Remodeling Books: Are They Worth The Buy?

Are you one of the many homeowners who has recently decided that you would like to tackle a home improvement project, such as remodeling your bathroom?  If so, do you have any previous home improvement or remodeling experience?  If you do not, it is advised that you try and get a little. Perhaps, the best way to do that would be to take a class on bathroom remodeling, but that isn’t always possible. A nice and relatively affordable alternate to bathroom remodeling classes are bathroom remodeling books. Despite the fact that bathroom remodeling books are full of valuable information, you may be wondering whether or not they are really worth the buy.

Perhaps, before you start determining whether or not bathroom remodeling books are worth the buy, you should first familiarize yourself with exactly what they are.  Bathroom remodeling books, which are also sometimes referred to as bathroom remodeling how-to guides, are printed resources that are designed to assist homeowners with their own do it yourself bathroom remodeling projects.  Bathroom remodeling books and how-to guides not only give you remodeling ideas and tips, but they also tend give detailed remodeling directions, such as directions on how to replace your bathroom flooring and so on.

Now that you know what bathroom remodeling books are, you may want to start examining whether or not you should buy one.  Honestly, it all depends on a number of different factors.  Bathroom remodeling books or how-to guides come in a number of different formats.  There are some books that list information and directions on multiple bathroom projects, while others tend to only focus on one or two.  If you are looking to have the majority of your bathroom remodeled, it may be a good idea to purchase a book that covers a number of different projects and visa versa.  The best way to make sure that a bathroom remodeling book is money well spend is by making sure that you purchase a book that you can use.

Speaking of a book that you can use, it is not only important to examine the projects that are outlined or explained in a bathroom remodeling book, but it is also important to examine how they are outlined or explained. For instance, would you be able to read a detailed set of written directions or would you like to see those directions shown in pictures. While a large number of bathroom remodeling how-to guides have detailed pictures with their directions, not all do. Once again, you will not waste your money and purchase a bathroom remodeling book that will not do you any help.

Another thing to consider, when determining whether or not kitchen remodeling books and how-to guides are worth the money, is their price.  How-to remodeling guides can be purchased online, from most home improvement stores, and most books stores. Each of those locations is likely to sell different books, for different prices. Despite the variation in costs, you will find that most traditional bathroom remodeling books, the ones that tend to focus on a number of different projects, sell for as low as ten dollars. If you are looking for a more detailed remodeling book, you may need to pay a little bit more money.  Most specialty bathroom remodeling books start out selling for around fifteen or twenty dollars. Of course, you need to remember that some books will sell for less and some books will sell for more.

From the looks of it, you may be thinking that bathroom remodeling books are more than worth the buy. In most cases, you will find that you are right. However, it is also important to note that you should be able to find the same information online, without having to pay a dime.  If are looking to save money, instead of purchasing a bathroom remodeling how-to guide, you may want to think about performing a standard internet search online.



Bathroom Remodeling:  Choosing a New Shower Stall

In the United States, a large number of homeowners only have a bathtub in their homes. Most bathtubs really aren’t just bathtubs; many also double as showers.  As nice as it is to only have one bathroom fixture, especially one that can do two jobs, you may be looking for more. If you are looking to remodel your bathroom, you may want to think about purchasing yourself a new bathtub.  Unfortunately, you will find that not all bathtubs double as showers; therefore, you may also be in the market for a new shower stall.

Perhaps, the most important thing to remember, when looking to buy a new shower stall, is the amount of space that you have available.  If you are going from one bathtub to a bathtub and a standalone shower, there is a chance that you may be limited on space.  If that is the case, you may find your options to be somewhat limited. That is unless you are planning on remodeling your entire bathroom. If you are planning on changing your entire bathroom around, it may be easier for you to find and purchase the shower stall of your choice, without having to worry about whether or not it will even fit in your bathroom.

Once you have decided that you would like to purchase a new bathroom shower stall, as well as how large of one you can purchase, you will need to start shopping for your shower. Although you may expect to find everything that you need all in one place, it may be a little bit difficult to do. Although there are a number of retailers, particularly home improvement stores, that sell standalone shower kits, there are others who do not. If you are unable to find a retailer who sells shower kits, you may need to purchase all of your parts separately. The parts that you will need may include, but should not be limited to, a shower floor, shower walls, a shower door, as well as a shower head.  

When it comes to buying a new standalone shower, there are many homeowners who go searching for the nicest looking standalone shower.  While there is a chance that you may be looking for the best, there is also a chance that may be remodeling your kitchen on a budget.  If so, you may be pleased to know that standalone showers come in a number of different sizes, shapes, and styles.  Whether you are looking a trendy looking standalone shower or the most affordable one, there is a good chance that you will be able to find exactly what you were looking for. Just in case you were wondering, most standard standalone showers start selling for around two or three hundred dollars, and from there the prices goes up.

As previously mentioned, most home improvement stores, both on and offline, carry a selection of shower supplies, including supplies that are grouped into packages or kits. Therefore, if you are looking to have a new standalone shower in your home, it may be a good idea to shop at one of your local home improvement stores.  In fact, home improvement stores, especially large ones, are known for their displays. In order to find the perfect shower for your soon to be remodeled bathroom, you may want to see these displays; however, if the displays are not as important to you, you may also want to think about shopping online.  Regardless of whether you shop, whether it be online or locally, you will want to try and find shower kits or packages.  These kits and packages are not only convenient, but they may also save you money.

Once you have found and purchased the standalone shower of your choice, you may want to start installing it right away.  Since most standalone shower kits come with instructions, you should easily be able to install your own shower, even if you have no prior home improvement experience. What could be better than having a new shower installed and saving money at the same time?

Bathroom Remodeling: Choosing Your New Bathtub

Bathroom Remodeling: Choosing Your New Bathtub

Are you a homeowner?  If so, if you could change one thing about your bathroom, what would you like to change? If you are like many other homeowners, there is a good chance that the bathtub was your response.  In the United States, there are a fairly large number of homeowners who wish that they had a new bathtub.  If you are one of those individuals, did you know that you don’t have to wish any longer? If you want a new bathtub, you should get one.  Making a new bathtub part of your kitchen remodeling project isn’t as difficult as it may seem.

Perhaps, the first step in choosing a new bathtub is determining how much money you can afford to spend on one. If you are also remodeling the rest of your bathroom, it is important that you not only focus on the cost of a new bathtub, but also the cost of your other supplies. If you mistakenly spend too much on a new bathtub, the rest of your bathroom remodeling plans could suffer. Also, you will likely find that having a bathtub limit or budget is the best way to save time while shopping. Knowing how much money is too much to spend will prevent you from wasting your time, by examining bathtubs that you cannot even afford.

It is also a good idea to determine, ahead of time, how your new bathtub will be installed.  If you are planning on having a professional install your new bathtub for you, you will need to keep the extra costs in mind. Although you may want to avoid paying a professional contractor, you may need to. There are a number of bathroom contractors who specialize in replacing bathtubs. In fact, some, literally, just place a new bathtub right over the old one.  It may be possible for you to do this yourself, but, in most cases, you will find that a professional contactor could have your new bathtub installed in as little as a few hours.

Regardless of whether you choose to install your own bathtub or have a professional do it for you, you will need to find a new bathtub to purchase.  If you are looking to have your old bathtub completely removed, you will likely find that you have more options.  When a new bathtub replaces an old bathtub, the tubs need to be about the same size or style. Therefore, if you are remodeling your bathroom with the hopes of getting a “new,” bathroom, you may be looking for something different.  Luckily for you, you still have an unlimited number of options.

In the United States, the most commonly installed types of bathtubs include traditional ones, which are also known as standard tubs. These bathtubs are often connected right to the wall, placed in a corner, and sit directly on the floor.  What is nice about most traditional bathtubs is that they are relatively affordable.  You can purchase a traditional bathtub for as low as two hundred dollars.  If you are looking for comfort, instead of price, you may want to look into spa-like bathtubs or even massage bathtubs. These bathtubs, as you may assume, cost more than most others.  Many massage bathtubs or spa-like bath tubs retail for around one or two thousand dollars.  If you are looking for a trendy, stylish bathtub, you may prefer to own a freestanding bathtub. Freestanding bathtubs can cost as low as five hundred dollars, but they can also reach into the thousands.

Once you have decided which type of bathtub you would like to purchase, you will need to decide on a particular tub. Perhaps, the best way to do this is to start your shopping. You may find it easier to make a decision when you can see bathtub displays set up.  For a wide selection of bathtubs, including displays, you are advised to checkout one of your local home improvement stores.



Bathroom Remodeling Classes:  Are They Worth the Money?

Are you interested in having your bathroom undergo remodeling?  Better yet, are you interested in doing that remodeling yourself?  If you are, do you have any prior bathroom remodeling or home improvement experience? Although it is possible to successfully complete a bathroom remodeling project without any prior experience, you may find it a little bit difficult to do so. That is why if you are looking to perform your own bathroom remodeling, but you don’t necessarily know what you are doing, you should sign up to take a bathroom remodeling class.  

When it comes to bathroom remodeling classes, one of the most asked questions is why. Honestly, there are a number of different reasons why you should take a bathroom remodeling class, which is also commonly referred to a course or a training seminar.  Perhaps, the greatest reason why you should take one of these training classes is because of everything that you will learn.  What you will learn will all depend on what class you are taking and how it is being taught. Despite the fact that different bathroom remodeling classes are taught different ways, you should learn tips and instructions on how to safely remodel a bathroom.

Now that you know what a bathroom remodeling class, course, or training seminar is, you may want to start searching for one to attend. No matter where you live, you should have access to at least one bathroom remodeling course, but chances are that you will have more than one to choose from. One of the best ways to find a local bathroom remodeling course is by contacting one of your local career centers.  Career centers often provided training courses to those who are in need of a job. Although you may not necessarily be looking for a job, you should still be able to attend one of these classes, for a small fee of course. Despite needing to pay a small fee, which is almost always less than one hundred dollars, you can greatly benefit from what you learn at one of these classes.  

In addition to contacting one of your local career training centers, you may also want to contact one of your local home improvement stores. In the United States, a large number of home improvement stores, particularly those that operate on a national level, have started hosting do it yourself training courses.  These courses often encompass a number of different home improvement projects, but it is quite common to find a kitchen remodeling class being held at one of your local home improvement stores.  In most cases, you will find that these courses only last a few hours and tend to focus on one remodeling task at a time; therefore, if you were looking to learn how to remodel your whole kitchen, you may need to take multiple classes.  The good news is that most of the classes offered are free or relatively inexpensive to attend.

It is also a good idea to keep an eye on your local newspaper, your local television stations, as well as your local radio stations.  In addition to regularly scheduled kitchen remodeling classes, you may also find a remodeling class that is considered a special event.  This most often happens when someone famous, such as a well-known contractor, comes into your area. These types of classes are often popular because of who they involve and what they teach you.  The only downside to special home improvement classes, especially the ones that are taught by celebrities or an expert in the filed, is their cost.  Despite the potentially high cost, you may find it more than worth it to attend one of these home improvement classes, especially if they have a focus on bathroom remodeling.

As nice as it is to participate in a bathroom remodeling training seminar, course, or class, you may not have the time to do so. If that is the case, you are still advised to take the time to learn about bathroom remodeling before you go to work.  A nice alternative to a kitchen remodeling training course is a kitchen remodeling book or a how-to guide. These resources can be purchased from most home improvement stores and book stores, for a relatively affordable price.